Research points to retinoids — vitamin A derivatives — as the best age erasers out there. Retinoids can smooth fine lines, fade dark spots, and help make pores look smaller. However, retinoids can cause skin irritation. Here are some tips for using retinols in your skin care.
- Start slow — choose an over-the-counter product with retinol. These products contain retinoic acid that works more slowly but irritates skin less. Give it time; improvement may take up to twelve weeks.
- Choose a period of time when you have no major events coming. You might not want to risk the irritation around the time of a wedding, reunion, or business presentation.
- Pick products packed in aluminum tubes. Air and light can reduce effectiveness.
- Start your retinoid use in summer. Retinoids can dry your skin, and summer is generally more humid.
- Search your cabinets for potential irritants. Scrubs and exfoliants can react with retinoids. So can alcohol based toners, alcohol based astringents, medicated cleansers, and some makeup.
- Avoid sensitive areas of your face like the lips and upper eyelids.
- Try applying retinoids before bed, rather than first thing in the morning. Sunlight can make retinoids less effective.
- Use sunscreen every day! Retinoids help slough off dead skin cells, so you are losing a layer of natural sun protection. Use SPF 15 or higher.
- Think about switching to a prescription if you don’t see an improvement after three months. A prescription formula can be up to 15 times more effective!
So why do retinols work? Your skin has receptors that are specifically activated by these vitamin A derivatives. When the retinoids hit your skin, a bunch of cell processes start up. Your skin cells start to produce collagen (fibers that keep skin firm) and hyaluronic acid (a natural hydrator). Even better, retinoids stop production of enzymes that break down collagen. Cell division speeds up — so dark pigment production can’t keep up with the turnover. Retinoids encourage the creation of new blood vessels, so your skin gets extra oxygen.